Journal

How to tell full-grain leather from the rest

Full-grain leather keeps the hide's whole outer surface, with its natural grain, pores and small marks. Top-grain has that surface sanded and coated. "Genuine leather" is usually a lower split layer, and bonded leather is shredded scraps glued together. Look for visible pores, slight irregularity, and a firm, fibrous cut edge.

The cut edge of thick full-grain leather, showing the dense grain layer over looser fibers, with a magnifying loupe

What does "full-grain" mean?

A hide has layers. The outermost is the grain: a tight, dense layer of fibers that carries the animal's natural pattern of pores, creases and the occasional scar. Full-grain leather keeps that layer whole. Nothing is sanded off and nothing is pressed on to hide it.

Because the grain is the strongest part of the hide, full-grain leather is the most durable kind. It is also the kind that develops a patina, darkening and softening with use, especially when it is vegetable-tanned.

How is top-grain different?

Top-grain leather comes from the same outer layer, but its surface has been sanded or buffed to remove marks, then usually finished with a pigment or coating and sometimes embossed with an artificial grain. It looks more uniform and resists stains at first, but it is a little less strong, and the coating can crack or peel rather than age.

What is "genuine leather"?

Despite the name, "genuine leather" is usually a lower grade. It typically means a split: a layer cut from the underside of the hide after the grain has been taken off. Splits are often heavily finished and embossed to look like grain leather. It is real leather, but it is weaker and doesn't wear the same way.

What about bonded leather?

Bonded leather is made from leather scraps and fibers, shredded and glued onto a backing, then coated. It is the cheapest option and the least durable. It tends to peel within a few years.

How can I tell full-grain leather by looking at it?

  • Look for pores and variation. Full-grain shows small pores and slight differences across the surface. A perfectly even, plastic-looking surface usually means a coated or embossed finish.
  • Check a cut edge. Full-grain has a dense, fibrous edge that gets denser toward the outer face. Bonded leather shows a backing layer.
  • Press and bend it. Full-grain wrinkles naturally and the creases relax. Coated leather can show fine cracks in the finish.
  • Read the label carefully. "Genuine leather" and "made with real leather" are not the same as full-grain.

Is the Sabana Crossbody full-grain?

Yes. The Sabana Crossbody is cut from full-grain vegetable-tanned cowhide, 1.6–1.8 mm thick, and left unlined so the grain is on show. Small marks and variations in the hide are part of the material, not flaws. It is made in our workshop in Restrepo, Bogotá, and you can read more about the neighborhood in Restrepo, the Bogotá neighborhood that makes Colombia's leather.

To keep full-grain leather looking good, see the care guide. For sizes, shipping and returns, see the FAQ.

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